It depends on whom you ask. Dairy farmers say only milk from a cow can be labeled milk. Makers of nondairy beverages such as soy milk and almond milk say their labels make it clear what is in their product and they shouldn’t have to remove the word milk.

The debate has been around for years but has heated up in recent months. On Thursday, FDA Commissioner Scott Gottlieb announced the agency will focus on settling the question. It will look at how the current ”standard of identity” for milk is being interpreted. The FDA has hundreds of these standards, which define what a product must contain to carry a specific label, and it is now modernizing all the standards. The aim is to define how products have to be made. For instance: How many tomatoes do you need to call a product ketchup?

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